This time last year, we spent a fair amount of time in Sabah as part of our story gathering process for our rice issue. In the Malaysian state, located on the most northern tip of Borneo, we sought out rice ritual specialists, observed the magavau, and talked our way into a rice wine factory.
Some of our best leads originated from serendipitous encounters at the Harvest Festival, or Pesta Ka’amatan. This annual month-long celebration, held at the Kadazan-Dusun Cultural Association in Kota Kinabalu, may appear like an ordinary Southeast Asian outdoor night market. The red and blue tents on concerningly light poles. The constant billowing of smoke from barbecue pits. The unfamiliar yet attractively brightly coloured drinks. And the flapping and slapping of rubber flip-flops on the wet tarmac just after the evening shower.
But take a closer look at the Harvest Festival setup and you’ll notice elements from this annual outdoor fare that sets it apart from your familiar neighborhood pasar malam, or night market in Silom . There’s plenty more happening at the main hall with the official ceremonial proceedings. But we don’t want to give too much away. More of the rice ritual and the High Priestess in print issue of the magazine.
Sinalau bakas
Wild boar or sinalau bakas will likely be sold at every fourth stall you walk past at the Harvest Festival. Smoked, grilled, or roasted whole on a spit, sinalau bakas is worth trying at least once. If you don’t fancy the taste, just try a different stall. We reckon the taste of wild boar is a pretty gamey, but not overly powering if seasoned well.
Pusas
Think tapas, bar snacks, or yakitori — basically finger food that would go well with your (alcoholic) drink. We recommend fried butod (sago worms, or grub) seasoned with spices.
P/S For those wondering and our bright bees, yes, sinalau bakas also counts as pusas.
Lihing
This cottage-industry or homebrew is made from fermented glutinous rice and yeast. Flavoured variations include ginger, exceptionally good in a clear chicken broth, banana, pineapple and roselle — if you like ice wine, moscato or rosé, this is probably your drink.
More: What should a good rice wine taste like?
Tumpung
For those on the go (i.e walking and drinking), on a budget, or just fancy the act of sharing a communal drink, you could opt for tumpung. You know those massive cocktail jugs they serve at Mexican-style bars, the ones with the metre-long straws? Or maybe that sordid moonshine in a pail at your last full moon party? Same-same, but different. And admittedly we are bias when we mean, same, but better.
We got our cup of tumpung at the Harvest Festival in KDCA from a middle-aged auntie who insisted we had one to go. Her upselling skills were pretty impressive.
Learn more about the difference between tumpung and lihing.
Karaoke
You’ll be competing with neighbouring tents — set up by vendors who usually serve alcohol and provide plastic tables and chairs to offload your stash of pusas. So, good luck getting your voice heard over the commotion and expect to be wake up with a rather raspy voice the morning after!
Tried and tested tip: If you show up early enough, you most probably will have the microphones and playlist to yourselves. Having that said, sing a few songs (terribly) back to back, and you’ll get more people placing their song requests, sending you to the back of the queue in no time.
Before you go…
….if there’s one thing to remember before making your way to Kota Kinabalu for the Harvest Festival,
it’s the word:
Aramaiti!
Pronounced: aah-rar-my-tea
Meaning, to celebrate together.
Kotobian Tadau Tagazo Do Kaamatan
‘Happy Harvest Festival’
Learn more about Sabah’s rice ritual specialist and the significance behind the magavau ceremony and the harvest festival in Plates, Vol.1: Rice. Available in our online store. We ship worldwide.
* Use the coupon code ‘TQHARVEST‘ to get FREE WORLDWIDE SHIPPING and an additional 20% OFF. Promotion ends 31 May 2019.
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